And to Drink …

Red wines go well with long-cooked tomato sauces, but dishes made with fresh tomatoes, even those charred over coals, go much better with whites, especially those with lively acidity and minimal oakiness. That leaves many choices, whether a crisp Albariño from Rías Baixas in northwestern Spain, or an assyrtiko from the Greek island of Santorini, with plenty in between.  Italian whites would be great, including Soaves from the Veneto, vermentinos from Liguria and Etna Biancos from Sicily.  Or try a dry white from southern France, like an Irouléguy or a Jurançon from the southwest, or a Cassis from Provence.  Yes, sauvignon blancs from the Loire will work, too, so long as they are restrained.  An array of bone-dry rosés would be excellent, as would fino sherry. ERIC ASIMOV