And to Drink …

The mild creaminess and delicacy of this seafood pie calls out for a wine that will cut through the neutrality of the flavors without clashing with them. That means the wine must have good acidity. Since I’m thinking of chardonnay, that means most likely a white Burgundy. A premier cru or grand cru Chablis with eight to 12 years of age would be delicious, but you could also try this with a village-level Meursault or Chassagne-Montrachet. Or you could drink your chardonnay in the bubbly form of a blanc de blanc Champagne. Alternatives to chardonnay? Chenin blanc would go well with this dish, like a Savennières or good Anjou blanc, so long as they are dry. Or maybe a rich, dry riesling, like a smaragd from the Wachau. ERIC ASIMOV