And to Drink …

For a meal of multiple courses, you ideally want to have a wine to pair with each dish. Most nights, unless it’s a special occasion or you have guests, that is not a practical solution. But suppose it were possible. You could serve a dry sparkling wine or a fino sherry with the snacks, a dry white wine like a Soave, a Fiano di Avellino or a grüner veltliner with the salad and a dry red with the polenta and tomato dish. Chiantis and Barberas are great with cooked tomato sauces, but you could also try an aglianico from Campania or an Etna Rosso from Sicily. If you still have an appetite with dessert, you could serve a tawny port or Madeira. If you are picking one wine, though, I’d stick with the dry red. ERIC ASIMOV